It’s impossible to imagine Vienna at Christmas without Christmas markets. Wooden chalets, heart shaped lights and other decorations have begun to appear all over the city. We have been promised that this year, with appropriate Covid safety measures, the famous Christkindl markets will go ahead, hopefully latest in the coming weeks. So, get ready to grab a mug of steaming hot Glühwein in one hand, a freshly baked Fladenbrot in the other and find out the best places to enjoy this Christmas tradition.
Rathaus Christmas Market
Yes it’s touristy, busy and sometimes quite expensive, but with the neo-Gothic town hall lit up, the trees decked out with hundreds of lights, and with a stunning view of Vienna’s Burgtheater, it’s hard to resist. Once the New Year begins, a huge fairy tale ice rink takes its place, with free ice-skating on the small kiddie rink for those with small children.
Viennese Christmas Market and Ice Dream
Spittelberg Christmas Market
Lining the narrow cobbled streets of Spittelberg are lots of stalls selling Austrian delicacies such as Bauernkrapfen, sausages, salamis, cheeses and international foods such as fresh pasta and arancini. It’s also a good place to pick up Christmas decorations and handicrafts and there’s a huge choice of different Punsch and Glühwein variations. The tiny cinema near the market, Filmhauskino am Spittelberg, typically shows Christmas-themed films over this period. It is still likely (with Covid restrictions in place) that there will be a children’s programme, some indoor activities and musical performances.
Karlsplatz Christmas Market
This market really has everything. The backdrop of a beautiful church set against hundreds of fairy lights. Actual sheep and llamas and a huge hay bale area, not to mention professional child minders who may be available between midday and 19:00 every day to keep the children happy with arts and crafts in yurts while the grownups wander around drinking Punsch. There are rides for the children as well as arts and crafts demonstrations. According to the market’s website, there will still be a children’s programme this year, but obviously this could all change.
There will not be live music this year, but organ grinders will wander the market to provide music. In years past, there was street theatre and a Divina Diwan experience, in which shoppers can be conveyed around the market on a moving couch and served products by a man servant bearing a silver tray.
The Karlsplatz market is filled with stalls belonging to an arts and crafts association called Divina Art, which means all items on sale are made by local artists and crafts people – including ceramics, jewelry and other items, not just Christmassy ones. Some nice food, again including Bauernkrapfern but also freshly baked Fladenbrot (flat breads), Kiachl (a kind of flat doughnut) and Raclette (melted cheese).
Altes AKH Christmas Market
This lovely little market set among the tree-lined old AKH university campus in Alserstraße is very child-friendly. It has small funfair rides, pony rides, arts and crafts and a mini train. Hopefully the popular Campus Alms will return as well as the curling rink. Again, a very family friendly and relaxed affair.
A COVID-19 prevention concept has been developed to ensure the Christmas markets pass off safely. This advice can change at any time — monitor this website for the latest guidelines and information.
BIO
Emma Midgley is a mother, masters student and freelance communications and journalist professional based in Vienna. In her spare time, she goes jogging and hiking in the woods around Vienna or tries out new cafes in search of great coffee and cake.
Emma is available for communications and journalism freelance work and would love to hear your restaurant and cafe recommendations!
The streets of Vienna are paved with culture, the streets of other cities with asphalt.
Karl Kraus, Austrian writer and journalist